"Oh, the humanity!"

This quote, introduced to me by my friend Michael King, was made famous by Herbert Morrison, who was a recorded radio eyewitness to the Hidenburg disaster that took place on May 6, 1937. Without going into much detail, the Hidenburg disaster refers to the events surrounding and including the catching afire of the German rigid airship, Hindenburg, causing 35 fatalities in Manchester Township, New Jersey.

"Oh, the humanity!" 62 years later and thousands of miles away from Herbert Morrison, these words were what came to me as I sat reflecting on my recent visit to Elmina castle in Elmina, Ghana. Owned before by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, Elmina Castle was one of the most important stops on the route of the Atlantic slave trade. It was a place I truly wanted to visit when I finalized my decision to come to Ghana and am grateful to my hosts for taking me.

To see the dungeons and cells and to hear the history from our guide of the horrific conditions the slaves (of course one or more of them being my ancestors) has impacted me in ways I may never fully comprehend. One young man, who I believe was from Europe, broke down into tears as he took one last look at the gate/window that leads out of the "room of no return" (pictured above). Just to see the small size of the exit, you know how malnourished the men and women were as they left. Lying on the floor were flower arrangements, commonly found at grave sites, said to be brought by visitors to pay their respects and say "never again!" It was also in that room that some slaves saw their relatives of the opposite sex for the first time after months of being held in the castle.

Among the many terrible stories that we heard, the one that has burned itself into my memory is how the female slaves were treated. Being held in captivity for two months time, the female slaves were held in dungeons (essentially a large stone room with minimal ventilation) and would have to relieve themselves and have their monthly cycle on the same floors they laid their heads to sleep at night. I'm sure you may be thinking to yourself, "Oh, the humanity!"

The most ironic thing about the entire place was smack in the center of the four walls stood a two story tall building: the Portuguese church. Yes in the same place where some of history's most darkest atrocities took place, men gathered to ? Honestly, I don't think I have the words to describe the actions birthed out of their fellowsihp.

Alas, as I sat reflecting on my engagement with the underbelly of history, none of what I have written were the impetus of Hebert Morrison's quote to ring in my head again, again, and again. It was my perceived hollowness to the words "never again."

For Christmas this year, Terri gave me a book by author Keith Richburg titled "Out of America: A Black Man Confronts Africa." Mr. Richburg was a columnist for the Washington Post in Africa for three years, which coincided with the Rwandan Genocide and a civil war in Somalia. It is a great book and is quite controversial and courageous for the author's quote reflecting upon all of his time spent on The Continent: "Thank God my nameless ancestor, brought across the ocean in chains and leg irons, made it out alive. Thank God I am an American" (very reminiscent of the second ever published African American poet Phyllis Wheatley). I neither agree nor disagree with the author's opinion, but I definitely understand where he's coming from. The same reason I do not readily embrace the advice given to me a few days ago by a well meaning gentleman to "take an African last name." Yes, while many say "never again" should the white man (or Obroni) tragically oppress and exploit the continent and her people, it's not necessary because today so many Africans are doing it to themselves. Look at Zimbabwe, look at Darfur, look at Nigeria, look the Lord's Resistant Army.

And taking it just a step past Elmina castle, the words "never again" are probably best known as the world's response to the Jewish Holocaust. Yet all over the world by ALL races (as has been well documented by those more capable and knowledgeable than I) this type of tragedy happens again and again and again! Even recently exhibited by, of all people, the Jewish state of Isreal against the people of the Gaza strip. I have very little confidence in the idea that one day this will be no more, for in the words of Cornel West "I know not to expect too much from these cracked vessels (humans)." I think Leonardo DiCaprio said it best in the movie Blood Diamonds in response to Maddy Bowen's (the journalist) comment that the world is falling apart, when he said, "When was the last time the world wasn't falling apart?"

So it is both the tragic and the heoric, the beauty and the not so beautiful, the disdain and the compassion in us all that makes me say, "Oh, the humanity!"

This blog is dedicated to my "special lady" Terri. While in her, like us all I see the frailty of humanity, it is in her that I also see the very best of humanity: grace, compassion, intelligence, good humor and joy (just to name a few ;) ). Even in the midst of many adverse circumstances, she still strives and achieves to give the world these gifts. Thank you for continuously looking past the frailty of this cracked vessel and seeing something more, greater! Te quiero mi amor!!!